When it comes to Tips Associated With 12 kicker subwoofers On The Drives What amp would be better to power 2 12 inch kicker compvt 2ohm subwoofers ?
well each 12cvt is 400 watts rms if you prefer to keep to kicker i'd go with a couple channel amp. if you want to go along with a 1 channel mono amp you'll need a 1ohm stable amp. i personally would go along with a zx550.2 at least. you can get a another one for $240 on ebay. i had put together 2 4ohm cvt wired to two ohms by using a zx400.1 they usually pounded. these folks were somewhat under powered nonetheless they pounded. and remember, kicker under rates their stuff so a zx550.2 one is the most like 600 watts and up.Maybe stick to Kicker ? They've created some solid amps for not a lot of money.. a pair of these amps would hammer those CVT's HARD !
I've a question about Kicker subwoofers?Therefore i blew my L5 15 and i employ a kicker 750.1 amp. I'm wondering what could be louder? a L7 15 (1000 rms) or DCVR 12s (2) - (800rms) in a 528i BMW.Was half way the precise setting for any gain?Was the ported box tuned properly?These factors could make or break a system.High wattage doesn't mean loudness. You also want to look for the sensitivity (dB or SPL[Sound pressure Level]) of the sub.Sub B would actually be louder than sub A considering that the sensitvity is higher even though the power handling of sub A is higher.This is why that operates. The sensitivity of a sub is the SPL output the sub could have with 1 watt of power at 1 meter. Each doubling of power, you get a 3 dB gain in volume or SPL.
Even at 1000 watts on Sub A, Sub B still pushes more dB with only 500 watts.This is only a good example as well as doesn't indicate actual dB output since this is dependent upon many factors for instance enclosure used, cabin gain, etc.By using a sensitivity of 97 dB and 400 watts RMS power handling, it is going to push a great deal more dB than either of these kickers and in many cases with less power. This also means the amp needed to push two of them will cost less too......only $140 for one sub.The aim of the gain is always to match the signal volts RMS from the source (Cd player, etc.) for the input on the amp for correct power matching and minmize clipping.You want a multi-meter (AC voltmeter, $15 from Radio$hack), Microsoft Excel including a strategy to burn an audio Cd from an MP3 (test tone included).Firstly you should figure out why it blew. You probably have your gain too much. The gain is NOT A VOLUME KNOB! It has to be set correctly.
Use the L7, simply because it handles more power and can offer you a little breathing room because you probably prefer to push subs to their limits. The zx750.1 probably puts out over 800 watts actually, therefore you could be running the CVR's right up to their limit, and so the L7 is really a better choice.Ok well, you must take ? half way is correct?
2-12's, they've got more overall expanse, bass is the displacement of air, you are able to exercise air with a lot more exterior, see where I am going using this type of? Anyway you'll find different factors, but merely by occurring whatever you gave us... Also I'm not really hot for Kicker, I've noticed they have REALLY bad cones... Would you be running the 12's on their limit, they're rated to deal with 800 watts RMS, and if they do not call the manufacturer, new drivers for you... See when choosing a sub/amp combo you wish to match the RMS of each of the as evenly as is possible AT the proper ohm... Whomever above me clearly does not have any idea what they're talking about, BECAUSE you can exceed the complete RMS on the drivers by 15% SAFELY, WITHOUT ruining your drivers... That isn't the way to set the gain, Although the higher the volts you own to the amp the greater RMS output it typically has, do you have higher voltage alt? That's not too likely but worth a trial to check...
What 2 12in shallow mount subwoofers what's get to be hooked up to a kicker zx750.1 amp within my truck?
If you send a lot of capability to your sub, you risk damaging it. The cone of the speaker as well as mechanical parts that make it move may break beneath stress. Surprisingly, too little power might also damage your subwoofer ?a in fact, it is really more prevalent than damage a result of overpowering.
Once the volume is resulted in and the amp has not got enough power, the signal becomes distorted, or clipped. This distorted signal might cause regions of the speaker to overheat, warp and melt. You don't have to match speaker and amp wattages exactly. An amp with a higher output than the speaker's rating won't necessarily damage the speaker ?a just turn the amp down slightly if you ever hear distortion from the sub and do not run the speaker at extremely loud volumes for lengthy periods. Likewise, you can be OK with a cheaper powered amp if you maintain volume down and feed a distorted signal towards sub.you will send the amp into clipping.Clipping occurs when an amplifier is asked to provide more current into a speaker as opposed to amp is able to do. When an amplifier clips, it literally cuts off the tops and bottoms in the musical waveforms that it is trying to reproduce, thus the word. This introduces lots of distortion to the output signal. Clipping is often heard to be a crunching sound on musical peaks.that causes distorted sound that can damage your subs as time passes
to maximize clean signal strength out of your amp, you should adjust the gain or input sensitivity settings. Here's how:
Set the input sensitivity controls of the amplifier recommended to their minimum level (counter clockwise).Put a Cd and turn the receiver's volume control up (it's likely you have to lift the amp's gain just a bit to hear the music activity).Whenever you hear distortion, stop. Turn the down until it disappears. As much signal as possible is passing from your receiver to your amp. This maximizes the signal-to-noise ratio, and instead gives off your body less prone to engine noise problems. Maintain the volume setting here.Now turn the gain controls about the amplifier up until it's as loud as you'll act. If you hear distortion, slightly lower the gain settings.Now you've optimized the amp's output using the receiver's volume set near maximum. You may turn the actual the majority of exactly how up and never damage your speakers or amplify distortion. If you're hooking up a subwoofer, a test disc (or bass-heavy Cd) is for making final adjustments.try to avoid any boss SM subs. there're good subs nevertheless the sensitivity rating is bs. they're like a block of concrete a great amp. the pioneer shallow mount subs got great reviews.
How about some kicker subwoofers?Now, i've a nice amplifier putting out 1200 watts RMS. True power. Im thinking about just 1 kicker round subwoofer, like 800 watts max, and 400 RMS, at 4 ohms. You think it will thump pretty damn good?My other choice, mainly because its a little cheaper and has a 1200 watts max at 400 rms, is a Kenwood subwoofer. This looks nice as well. Choose for me please. and explain your selection. Dont generate any subwoofer brands into this. I have had an alpine before, didnt want it.if your amp is putting out 1200 rms then youll blow them both i know dont like kenwood they generate good amps though go square that has a kicker L7.thanks im glad i was able to help ive had much knowledge about car audio and kicker is just about the best i really have 3 15 L7s at my car my box is fashioned to do spl competitions i continue to have good sq however i needed to have a 800w 4ch amp 4 treble
Personally i would strongly recommand a Rockfor P2 double voice coil 12 sub.You cant get it wrong using this type of sub when your into SP.Your current amp is sufficent to drive the P2.For more humph, get your P2 fitted into a NON portted box.lol ok alpine is a good brand but ok . From
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